Patras to Ancona…

On board the truck drivers and I have had our supper. I had pan-fried Gilt-head, potatoes, strawberries, and roasted red peppers with olive oil. They ate Pasta, lamb stew, and other heavier trucker food. They had wine, I had water.

We left port around 5PM (10AM EST) and entered the Ionian Sea. We have yet to reach Corfu, where we’ll stop briefly to pick up more passengers and discharge some of the freight lorries tucked inside this enormous ferry. It is still the shoulder season so the ship is largely empty, but in July it will pack 600 people in its cabins and on deck.

I drink coffee, smoke cigarettes, and read my book. The world is blissfully unconcerned with me tonight and I feel the same way.

The sea is smooth and deep, and a blue that begs for description but it has been said to be ‘wine dark’…and it is. I cannot help but know that the route I am traveling has been charted for thousands of years and I am merely another of millions (maybe billions) of travelers to skim over its depths.

Imagine that it is 2500 years ago and a small Minoan boat is making its slow and peaceful way along the limestone coast. On board are 6 people…3 of them are crew; there is a trader from Corfu on his way home from trading in Athens; a scribe on his way to a wealthy household to become the teacher for the owner’s children; and there is the last passenger…a young man from Somewheresville, who can’t help but think he’s been there before, and that he will return again and again, if only to feel the depths and blueness of this sea.


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Johnnyboy is a queer recovering alcoholic. For the moment he is also the primary caregiver for his mother, who suffers from age-related cognitive impairment. She is happy as a lark and is surrounded by a crew of sober women which gives him the freedom he needs to get out of town. When he is not at home in Somewheresville, he is searching out the proper path to travel for happiness and joy. He is a photographer who believes in the digital age, but feels that film is still where its at. He has a darkroom and works in it. He is single and is in remarkably great physical condition for all the damage he has submitted his body to. His cardiologist is very happy. Johnnyboy is over the age of 35.

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