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An addendum to the Thessaloniki post…

Before 1917 the population of Thessaloniki was half Jewish. Then there was a huge fire that tore through the city. Much of the burg was destroyed. Many Jewish families left the city at that time, moving to Palestine and the USA among other spots. In all reality, the Jewish people built that city and were the primary bankers, shippers, traders, and businessmen for over 150 years. The city would not exist if it were not for them. Then came the Second World War and Hitler, and Eichmann, and the Nazi Final Solution.

First the Nazis rounded up all Jewish men between the ages of 18 and 40 and sent them to work camps around the area. The whole population of Thessaloniki rallied to their defense and secured their release through a huge ransom payment. Then the Nazis desecrated the enormous Jewish graveyard, digging it up, destroying the remains, and smashing all the monuments. The University of Thessaloniki now resides on that once hallowed ground. After that, the entire Jewish population of 50,000 ( it is estimated that only 2 0r 3% evaded capture) was rounded up and packed into cattle cars off to Aushwitz-Birkenthau. On arrival 77% were immediately gassed and cremated, and those that remained were sent to labor. many of them died as well. Very few survived the war.

As of today, in a city of over 350,000 people there are only about 1000 Jews. Their neighborhoods are filled with posh looking cafes and strip joints. Anyway, I have only one question…

Where were the people of Thessaloniki when the cattle cars were being loaded? Was the Nazi propaganda machine that good?

So I left Thessaloniki, gratefully, and am now in sunny, peaceful, although turbulent, Skopje, Macedonia. The food is great (vishla sausages…yum!) and I am on my way tomorrow to visit an AA friend in a nearby town. She works in the Peace Corps. After that, on to Sarajevo…The journey is indeed the thing…

Johnnyboy

The Greek Convention was lovely. I have come to the conclusion that I need not do everything nor meet everyone…Quality, not quantity. I left and stayed with my friend Godfrey in his flat in Athens for two days and am now in Thessaloníki, which is not Athens.

Although there are some lovely Byzantine churches, fantastic museums, and first rate AA (in Greek), this city is kind of a dump. This is not its fault, however. The place was a jewel up until 1944 when the allies bombed the living be-Jesus out of it. After that it was rebuilt along the same lines as any post-war system of blocks and concrete, as if a giant child was erecting a small city on the sand. What remained of the ancient burg still stood until 1978 when a large earthquake rattled the ancient bricks and mortar, shaking down the city yet again. The remnants of both of these tragedies are still visible, especially in the Old Town area and some spots along the port. UNESCO is funding a lot of renovation and the city is installing a metro system, as there is no mass-transit except for buses, which seem to be reliable and timely.

My hotel is opposite the train and bus stations and occupies the type of neighborhood typical of that geography. The Hotel Rex (138 Euros for 3 nights, including breakfast) is clean and neat, and the door to room #601 locks tightly. The water is hot and I have a superb view of the busy street below from my small terrace. On either side of me are the type of establishments that make this part of town the garden district–a Sex Shop on the left and a Strip club on the right. In fact, the bass reflex from the strip club can be heard faintly at night as I lay my head on my pillow. Still, the area seems safe enough…

I’ll be buying my train ticket to Skopje in about an hour. I leave for FYROM tomorrow at 4PM and I will be happy to be back on the road. I’ll be at work by next weekend and grateful to have a place to hang my hat for a while and stretch out my washing line.

On a sad note…I was hoping that Cyprus would be picked for the finals of Eurovision tonight, but no dice. There are some really wacky combos up on that stage.

Johnnyboy