The Bus to Sarajevo…

I left Kruševo, Macedonia at 6AM May, 29. I arrived in Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina at 8AM the next morning. Depending how one travels that is either 850 or 1000 kilometers. You do the math. At one point, in Serbia, it seemed as if the bus were going around in circles in the night. It was as if we stopped at every medium sized town along the way to either pick-up, or disembark, passengers. Then, of course, there was the change of buses in Niš, Serbia. Now there’s a real dive of a town. I suppose the old town is nice and there are some important historical sites in the city, but the area around the bus station was the worst kind of red-light district…money changers, prostitutes, nefarious types of all and any persuasion, and me, the itinerant American. That counted for at least 4 hours laying over…at least it wasn’t in the middle of the night. I finally slept a few hours just before we arrived in Sarajevo, and then the Serbian bus drivers would not bring us to the main station. They dumped us unceremoniously at the station a few kilometers from town.

I had booked a room at a local pension, but I was not able to find it anywhere. No one knew it, and it was not listed in any directory. The upshot is that this place is not registered so the owners do not have to pay lodging taxes, therefore the cost of a room is less. No worries, however, for I found a very nice place in its stead, the Pansion ?obanija, which is very nice, and the staff is more than helpful. Last night they coached me in grammar and phrases…Nice folks.

Sarajevo is lovely and tragic. The city is once more a thriving center of learning, economics, politics, and culture. The evidence of the war is everywhere, however, as there is probably not a single building that does not show the pock-marked scars of bullets and light arms fire. A few buildings are still pretty bombed out, but most of them are either in the process of being rebuilt, repaired, or even left standing as monuments. As my host Elvir said, ?Each generation has had its war…? Still the city is friendly, promising and full of wonderful photo-ops. I ‘ll try to post some next week on my Picasa site.

So, I have rested, eaten, shopped, done the tourist thing (for almost a month), and now embark on my real reason for coming here: service. I head of to Me?ugorje tomorrow and an adventure in service to my fellow man. I will be helping out the Roma, in so far as they want help. That is a big problem in Europe; not only the denial of the over-arching peoples and governments to the needs and hopes of these people, but the overwhelming desire of the Roma to remain separate from the status quo as well. These two aspects combine to make a disastrous reality for the world, in which abuse, malnutrition, ignorance, and fear remain the daily life of an invisible city.

Johnnyboy

Skopje, and more on Thessaloniki…

An addendum to the Thessaloniki post…

Before 1917 the population of Thessaloniki was half Jewish. Then there was a huge fire that tore through the city. Much of the burg was destroyed. Many Jewish families left the city at that time, moving to Palestine and the USA among other spots. In all reality, the Jewish people built that city and were the primary bankers, shippers, traders, and businessmen for over 150 years. The city would not exist if it were not for them. Then came the Second World War and Hitler, and Eichmann, and the Nazi Final Solution.

First the Nazis rounded up all Jewish men between the ages of 18 and 40 and sent them to work camps around the area. The whole population of Thessaloniki rallied to their defense and secured their release through a huge ransom payment. Then the Nazis desecrated the enormous Jewish graveyard, digging it up, destroying the remains, and smashing all the monuments. The University of Thessaloniki now resides on that once hallowed ground. After that, the entire Jewish population of 50,000 ( it is estimated that only 2 0r 3% evaded capture) was rounded up and packed into cattle cars off to Aushwitz-Birkenthau. On arrival 77% were immediately gassed and cremated, and those that remained were sent to labor. many of them died as well. Very few survived the war.

As of today, in a city of over 350,000 people there are only about 1000 Jews. Their neighborhoods are filled with posh looking cafes and strip joints. Anyway, I have only one question…

Where were the people of Thessaloniki when the cattle cars were being loaded? Was the Nazi propaganda machine that good?

So I left Thessaloniki, gratefully, and am now in sunny, peaceful, although turbulent, Skopje, Macedonia. The food is great (vishla sausages…yum!) and I am on my way tomorrow to visit an AA friend in a nearby town. She works in the Peace Corps. After that, on to Sarajevo…The journey is indeed the thing…

Johnnyboy